2002 Oremus Eszencia Tokaji, Hungary (RP 93)

"The 2002 Tokaji Eszencia is the least concentrated release to date from Oremus with 490 grams per liter residual sugar when normally it is over 500. Consisting of around 80% Furmint juice, it is struck through with 17 grams per liter acidity to keep that sweetness in check, and it was bottled in 2007 having spent two years in oak barrel and two more in the glass vessels. Lucid amber in color, it is blessed with an elegant bouquet that is almost understated for an Eszencia; Seville orange marmalade, apricot jam and lemon curd scents are all inviting. The palate is very well-balanced with fine acidity. While it does not have the decadence of the Essencia from the Royal Tokaji Company, it does have superb focus and purity that actually renders it easier to drink. In that way, you could describe it as less of an -experience,- but it yields much mellifluous pleasure. Drink now-2050+.

Oremus is one of the most well-known wineries in Tokaji. I visited their winery in the village of Tolcsva, where their 115-hectare vineyard is located. This includes prestigious first class parcels that belonged to the Rakoczi and Szirmay families in the 18th century. And there was a sense of opulence at Oremus that I rarely encountered elsewhere in Tokaj. It not only infused their impressive portfolio, but was translated in their splendid tasting room, furnished with plush antique furniture more suited to a Bordeaux chateau. Of course, that has no bearing on the wines themselves, which are generally top quality and some of the purest Tokaj wines that you will find in the region." - The Wine Advocate

VALUE: $550